Melanie DiSalvo in the Press
Melanie DiSalvo is a fashion industry expert and the founder of A Look Behind The Seams. She has spent more than 15 years in apparel sourcing and manufacturing, working with brands like Ralph Lauren, Walmart, and Rag & Bone.
Leading publications, including WWD, Forbes, NBC News, CNN, The Business of Fashion, and The Wall Street Journal, regularly quote her on garment sourcing, clothing manufacturing, fabric quality, ethical supply chains, and how to start a fashion brand.
TikTokers say Abercrombie is overcharging women for its sweaters — here's what experts think
"The Abercrombie sweater's fiber content isn't telling the full story," says Melanie DiSalvo, an apparel manufacturing expert and founder of A Look Behind The Seams. "If the men's 100% wool sweater is using a lower-quality fiber than the women's blend, the men could actually have an inferior product. Instagram and TikTok have trained a lot of consumers to believe that fiber content is the end-all-be-all when it comes to quality, but it's more nuanced than that."
Yahoo Shopping · October 2026
Read the article: TikTokers say Abercrombie is overcharging women for its sweaters — here's what experts think (opens in a new tab)
The New Material Age? How Technical Textiles Are Engineering Tomorrow
Melanie DiSalvo, founder of A Look Behind The Seams consultancy, told Sourcing Journal that health and wellness is a key growth area in technical and smart textiles due to strong consumer demand. “Right now, the textile that’s asked for the most by my clients is UPF fabrics,” she said. “I have long seen this trend in Asia, but it’s really picking up steam in the United States right now. People want everything from UPF fabrics to protect them from the sun to organic fibers that aren’t toxic to even more high-tech textiles that embed health benefits into them.”
Women's Wear Daily · July 2026
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Functional Fabric Fair Summer 2026 wraps up in New York
“It would have taken me weeks to research everything I learned in the three days that I spent at the Javits Center for Functional Fabric Fair. My takeaway from this summer show is that true collaboration is finally happening in the industry, and it feels like real progress towards scalable sustainability is being made. I think that's largely due to the conversations between suppliers and brands that are being driven during Day 0. Can't wait until Portland to see what else is new,” said attendee, Melanie DiSalvo, Founder of A Look Behind the Seams.
Fibre2Fashion · Summer 2026
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I test bags for a living. These are the only totes I reach for every day
The right material comes down to how you plan to use your tote. "The most important feature of a tote bag is the fabric," says Melanie DiSalvo, a textile expert and founder of A Look Behind the Seams.But regardless of which fabric you choose, quality matters. "You want your tote to have structure and to not fall apart." Here's a quick breakdown of some common players:
Yahoo Shopping · July 2026
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How bad is polyester actually for you? We asked the experts, and this is what they say
Polyester has several benefits and can help make the end product more functional, says Melanie DiSalvo, a fashion sourcing expert and founder of the apparel and material sourcing company A Look Behind The Seams. According to DiSalvo, here are some of the top benefits of the material:
Incorporating just a little bit of polyester to stretchy materials adds stability so those fibers don’t stretch out over time or lead to bagging and sagging.
The fact that it is water repellent makes it great for athletic wear. It quickly moves moisture away from your body, which will help you stay comfortable as you sweat, and can help prevent irritation and infections.
It tends to be wrinkle-resistant, making it good for travel clothes or other materials that may get bunched up.
Polyester tends to be more durable than some other natural materials. It can be less likely to wear out and tear, making your items that are made with it last longer.
NBC News · June 2026
Read the article: How bad is polyester actually for you? We asked the experts, and this is what they say (opens in a new tab)
5 Best Wool Pillows for Natural Support and Temperature Relief
"Our experts: Melanie DiSalvo, apparel manufacturing expert of 15 years and founder of A Look Behind The Seams." DiSalvo said comfort is an important factor and is in demand, “but now I think durability and the cost of a garment being justified by using premium textiles have become even more important.”
Forbes · February 2026
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The Coziest Cashmere Sweaters, According to Editors
FAQs
The following FAQs have been answered by textile expert and founder of A Look Behind the Seams, Melanie DiSalvo.
Which brands have the best cashmere?
Unfortunately, there’s no cut-and-dry answer here. According to textile expert and founder of A Look Behind the Seams Melanie DiSalvo, shopping by brand is difficult because a single brand can have multiple suppliers and quality standards. For that reason, she recommends paying attention to denier and fabric length, noting the longer and thinner the fibers, the better. “For example, Grade-A cashmere has a diameter of around 14 microns and a length of 34 to 36 millimeters. Baby cashmere is even better than Grade A. Loro Piana is an example of this, but if you Google baby cashmere, more affordable brands do come up,” she said. The best way to find this out is to look for it in the brand marketing or email them [to] ask what they are using.”
How can you tell if a sweater is 100% cashmere?
According to DiSalvo, textile manufacturers have gotten very good at blending fibers, making it harder for consumers to know what they’re truly buying. She recommends purchasing your cashmere items from reputable brands and checking the tags for fibers. Purchasing certifiable cashmere is also a way to ensure authenticity.
What is the best grade of cashmere?
According to DiSalvo, the best grade of cashmere is baby cashmere.
Can 100% cashmere be washed in a washing machine?
Yes. Your cashmere sweaters can be washed in a washing machine, according to DiSalvo, who washes hers on delicate or in a lingerie bag and then lays them flat to dry. “If you really care about your cashmere, then you should soak it in the tub; you can even use a bit of regular shampoo and then lay flat to dry,” she added. Still, it’s always best to check the care instructions on the tag to ensure the longevity of your pieces. For example, Quince recommends hand-washing its cashmere products with cold water and a mild soap or detergent.
• Meet our experts: Melanie DiSalvo, textile expert with over 15 years of apparel manufacturing experience and founder of A Look Behind the Seams
CNN · December 2025
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Anatomy of an Investment Piece: Bottega Veneta's Intrecciato Bags
And it’s not just the intricacy of the Intrecciato weave that makes Bottega pieces so covetable—it’s also the actual materials used to create them, stresses product development consultant and textile expert, Melanie DiSalvo. “By Bottega being part of the larger Kering group, it gives them access to premium materials that are almost impossible for other brands to get access to,” says Disalvo. How to clock a low-quality dupe versus the real thing? "One thing to look for on the woven leather, specifically with lower-quality dupes, would be fraying,” she adds. "And the lining is usually a dead giveaway, poorly sewn in, and low-quality materials (they figure that because no one sees it, it doesn't matter)." Meet the expert Melanie Disalvo is a product development consultant and textile expert who operates the social media account A Look Behind the Seams.
InStyle · September 2025
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Here's the real reason most jeans are blue
“Blue jeans are blue because of the unique dye used,” says textile scientist and denim expert Melanie DiSalvo. This dye, she explains, is “very special” because it doesn’t behave like any other type of fabric dye—basically making it the Beyoncé of the textile world. And the reason your jeans are blue has less to do with fashion and more to do with historical facts, a lot of dirt and one very clingy molecule that refuses to act normal. (Am I suddenly relating so hard to a dye? Yes.)
I spoke with DiSalvo, fashion historian and author Robert Ossant, and Amanda Massi, a celebrity stylist with an MFA in fashion design, to get all the juicy denim details. Read on to find out exactly what that dye is, how it works, and the surprisingly dramatic origin story of your favorite pants. Why indigo? Because it’s not like other dyes. “Most dyes penetrate the fibers, but indigo wraps around the yarn,” DiSalvo says. “It can then be worn off, which is what gives the fade effect on jeans over time.”You can get other colors by knowing your chemistry. “Sulfur, iron and a few other natural elements can be added to the indigo to manipulate its color, making it more green, red or black,” DiSalvo says. White jeans are also a popular and timeless option, and their color is derived from denim’s naturally lighter color. About the experts
Melanie DiSalvo is the founder of virtue + vice and has more than 15 years of apparel-manufacturing experience. She has a degree in textile science from the Fashion Institute of Technology and runs a popular Instagram account, @alookbehindtheseams, where she shares what happens inside textile factories all over the world. She’s worked with more than 500 brands, including many popular for their denim. Her first fashion job was in denim, working in wash houses and representing denim mills from all over the world.
Reader's Digest · June 2025
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Women's health experts say this fabric will keep you cool and dry during workouts
Moisture-wicking fabrics like nylon, polyester, and lyocell pull sweat away from your skin and spread it out across the outside surface of the fabric, allowing sweat to dry faster, says founder of manufacturing resource company Virtue + Vice, Melanie DiSalvo. This cools you down when things start to get sweaty, keeps you from feeling damp and weighed down during workouts. It also helps prevent chafing, keeps you dry on the way home (especially in the cold!), and even helps minimize sweat stains at the gym.
Women's Health · March 2025
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Glossy 101: What is an AI agent?
Melanie DiSalvo, founder of apparel manufacturer Virtue + Vice who has worked with major clients like Rag & Bone, Walmart, Ralph Lauren and Target, told Glossy she would suggest avoiding AI agents.
“While AI is great for scraping data like emails, it’s not great for closing sales,” she said. “When it comes to wholesale orders, 90% of the deal is the relationship. There is no shortage of new brands for boutiques and department stores to choose from. Where brands stand apart from all the others is the personal experience and relationship they can create.”
Glossy · January 2025
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Seamstress shares disheartening exclusive look inside clothing factory: 'There is so much that goes on behind the scenes'
Melanie DiSalvo (@alookbehindtheseams), an expert fashion and supply chain consultant and entrepreneur, recently shared an Instagram video detailing how industrial sewing machines operate. Unfortunately, it comes with some unexpected waste. "There is so much that goes on behind the scenes of factories that even industry professionals don't know about," DiSalvo explains, showing a piece of light blue-gray fabric with an out-of-place white stripe that will eventually be clipped away and discarded.
"When you start knitting a sweater panel, the machine needs a little bit of time to get going," DiSalvo says. The solution? Protect expensive materials, such as wool and cashmere, by instead feeding the machine low-quality fabrics at the outset. "What factories do instead is they start the machine off with a cheap poly yarn. This gives the machine time to stabilize," DiSalvo adds. "This way, when the good yarns are added in, there aren't any quality issues."
According to DiSalvo, even though the white pieces of poly yarn are removed and discarded, this practice helps ensure the final product has a longer shelf life, keeping it out of landfills longer. However, the entrepreneur couldn't help but highlight the incredible amount of waste.
The Cool Down · September 2024
Read the article: Seamstress shares disheartening exclusive look inside clothing factory: 'There is so much that goes on behind the scenes' (opens in a new tab)
Will Gen Z Cancel Fast Fashion for Good?
Former fast fashion executive Melanie DiSalvo, who is now a sustainable fashion consultant and advocate, saw fast fashion’s abuses first hand. Further up the chain, she recalls assistants and buyers being treated poorly, with many subject to regular hours of unpaid overtime and workplace bullying. “I was in a hopeless situation,” she recalls. “My co-workers couldn’t even get it together enough to not be cruel to one another. So what chance did our factory workers have at getting a little compassion?”
DiSalvo’s account of fast fashion is backed up by depictions in the entertainment industry
LIVEKINDLY · July 2022
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Can Shein Change?
"With brands that are producing millions of pieces, changing one little component of their supply chain has huge implications elsewhere,” said Melanie DiSalvo, a supply chain consultant who has previously worked in manufacturing for companies like Target and Walmart. “Fast fashion is not going away. It’s here to stay; it’s part of global economies. How we are going to make real progress is figuring out how to make it more sustainable, not try to shame it out of existence.”
The Business of Fashion · December 2021
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How Uighur Muslim Forced Labour Is Helping To Fuel The Fashion Industry - And What Shoppers Can Do About It
“When it comes to sustainability and ethics it's out of sight out of mind,” says Melanie DiSalvo, founder of supply chain consultancy Virtue + Vice. “It's hard for consumers to say no to an amazingly priced garment when the workers who made it are so disconnected from them. Everyone wants to talk about these issues, but very few consumers are actually making changes to their purchases. Which leaves us with the question, if customers don't care, why would brands be motivated to make changes that could reduce their bottom line?
“[Brands could] invest in their own supply chains in China and work with local communities to create new systems on their own terms,” says DiSalvo. “[And] be held accountable for their third party auditors, instead of using them as a shield of ‘we didn't know’.”
The Telegraph · February 2021
Read the article: How Uighur Muslim Forced Labour Is Helping To Fuel The Fashion Industry - And What Shoppers Can Do About It (opens in a new tab)
Want to Commit to Sustainable Fashion Practices? Follow This Guide
When looking at your closet, try to figure out the difference in the clothes that have lasted a long time and the ones that easily rip and spoil. "Unfortunately, because of the H&M and Forever 21 culture, we are so far removed from what quality is," DiSalvo explains when discussing how quality is wrongly associated with price. She recommends going, "into your closet and looking at the items that have lasted long. Pull it apart, look at the seams, look at the fabric: touch it, feel it, pull it." Once you've done that, compare it to the items that are breaking, and train yourself to see and feel quality.
PopSugar · November 2020
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Is Forced Uighur Labour in Your Supply Chain?
"I don’t think, for the most part, brands are intentionally not trying, it’s just that there are so many other things to worry about, perhaps it's not on the
top of their priority list,” explained Melanie DiSalvo, who founded sustainable supply chain consultancy Virtue + Vice after building a career sourcing for
major retailers like Target and Walmart.
“It’s really difficult to trace cotton and raw materials because they do get mixed up in the process,” DiSalvo said, adding that it can be even harder for
small, independent brands to be able to decipher the origins of their cotton.
“If your orders are so tiny [that] you are buying ready-made fabrics, it’s impossible for you to say whether the process of that fabric was done in a perfect
way.”
Primary surveillance is another increasingly popular option, says DiSalvo. More companies are setting up (or requesting access to existing) cameras on
their manufacturing lines, so that they can keep track of what is happening 24/7 on the factory floor, without having to physically be there at all time.
The Business of Fashion · July 2020
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Where Should Fashion Brands Manufacture Now?
Most [other] countries’ garment industries aren’t fully self-sufficient; they rely on getting components from China,” explained Melanie DiSalvo, founder of Virtue + Vice, a consultancy set up to help boutique fashion brands clean up their supply chain.
Melanie DiSalvo, founder of Virtue + Vice, sustainable supply chain consultancy, previously product developer for companies including Walmart, Target, Ralph Lauren, and Levi's.“China was set up to make things. The infrastructure is there and everything just works. If I was a struggling brand, I would want to be in a country like that, where things are set up to move and you are going to have the least amount of issues along the way. You need to be focusing your money and staff and attention on rebuilding your business. Supply chain diversification is a long-term goal but I don’t recommend the brands I work with jump right into that because everyone else is closed and China is still going. That’s the reason some of my brands are surviving right now. That’s not something to walk away from.”
The Business of Fashion · April 2020
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This Is What Sustainable Fashion Actually Means
Overall, though, current research indicates that natural fibers tend to have a lower carbon footprint than synthetics. Melanie DiSalvo, founder of the sustainable and ethical manufacturing resource Virtue + Vice notes that while fast fashion labels are critiqued for eco-focused collections, “if you're making a million pieces and you're changing from polyester to organic cotton, that's huge. That's a big deal.” She adds, “if you're making a million pieces and you're paying your factory workers a fair wage, that's amazing that you're impacting so many people.” Fair, of course, is also up for interpretation.
“I think that just comes down to personal choice,” says DiSalvo. “Anything you do in fashion, there is no perfect, sustainable thing. Everything requires inputs, everything requires materials, everything has a cost.”
The Zoe Report · April 2020
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America needs N95 masks. These people are trying to get them to healthcare workers
“Last week I never thought I would be working pro-bono to import masks,” wrote Melanie DiSalvo by email. DiSalvo is the founder of Virtue and Vice, a consultancy focused on ethical sourcing in the fashion industry. “But, as I continued to see my friends and friends of friends that were working in hospitals take to social media to plead for masks and other PPE, I thought, I know so many people in China, someone should be able to help me.” DiSalvo is raising money via GoFundMe to import masks sourced through suppliers she’s previously worked with and trusts.
Vox · March 2020
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Beware companies that promote “buy one, give one” charity
Entire article written by Melanie DiSalvo
Vox · October 2019
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Queen of Raw credits the trade war for getting brands to source deadstock
There might be good reasons to examine both sides of the deadstock issue, however. “Mills are overproducing knowing there is a market for [excess textiles],” said Melanie DiSalvo, who describes the concept of deadstock as “greenwashing.” She spent seven years in Asia in product development, production and supply chain management for brands including Ralph Lauren, Abercrombie & Fitch, AG Jeans, Walmart and Macy’s before founding the Virtue+Vice website to reveal “how the fashion industry really works, and what is being done to create a more sustainability and ethical future.” Q“We shouldn’t be burning textiles or garments or getting rid of them in any way but these markets are making it too easy to overproduce, have the benefits of economies of scale and then get rid of [these fabrics],” she explained.DiSalvo also questions the role of true deadstock in large apparel value chains. “True deadstock has damage,” she explained, though those defects can range from minor to significant. “You don’t know the damages when you buy it [oftentimes] and that can lead to quality problems, which leads to garments lasting for less time, which leads to them ending up in the landfill.”
But like Benedetto, DiSalvo agrees that a “lack of transparency” obfuscates the deadstock issue even further. “There’s really no way of knowing if this actually was something a brand rejected or a mill produced too much of because they knew they would be able to sell it off,” she added.
Sourcing Journal · June 2019
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Supply chain management strategies these women use to rise up in the ranks
Before founding her company, which advises fashion brands on impact sourcing and sustainable supply chain management, entrepreneur Melanie DiSalvo worked in supply chain management, product development and production for major fashion brands.
DiSalvo's intimate experience with the fashion supply chain and global market trends, particularly strategic regional sourcing and operations, provided the know-how to launch her own company. My in-depth understanding of how each level of the supply chain works has gotten me ahead," she says. “My time spent living and working overseas in factories and mills was invaluable because it taught me exactly what's possible and what isn't, and shapes how I solve problems for my customers every day.
"Because I know what goes into making each component of a clothing item, I can come up with environmentally sustainable workarounds that most people would never think to try," she adds.
American Express · May 2019
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How to go green on any budget and actually save money
No need to be ‘Pinterest worthy’ with new mason jars — reuse pickle jars, instead“The trick to going green in general, not just on a budget, is reusing what you already have,” says Melanie DiSalvo, founder of Virtue + Vice, which specializes in sustainable and ethical fashion. “You don't need a ‘Pinterest worthy’ home full of mason jars and fancy zero waste products to join the movement. Instead of buying a new set of mason jars, try old jars from groceries. Glass pickle and tomato sauce jars that otherwise would have been tossed make excellent alternatives.”
NBC News · April 2019
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Laundry Tips for Busy Parents
Can I leave clothes inside out in the wash?Rejoice! It might actually be better to leave them this way, since the washing wears clothes out, says Melanie DiSalvo, founder of clothing line Virtue + Vice. If the inside of the garment takes a beating in the machine, the exterior will look better longer. But the same doesn’t hold true for socks: They need to be right side out for a thorough clean!
Parents Magazine · October 2018
The Repair Economy Gains Momentum
The clothing label Virtue + Vice has included a repair element for consumers, who sign up for a $3,500, 10-day tour to meet its suppliers in India. Led by founders Melanie DiSalvo and William Fink, the trip is geared for students and people who are interested in sustainable and ethical fashion. With stops in Delhi, Agra, Jaipur and Maheshwar, participants will have the opportunity to re-dye or block print old clothing. In a cut-and-sew factory,they will learn basic mending skills like sewing buttons and hemming.
WWD · June 2018
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The Best Bathing Suits for Different Body Types
When it comes to beach sports like volleyball and surfing, you might think that fabric plays the biggest role in choosing the best bathing suits. But, as it turns out, the most important thing to focus on is cut — and more coverage is always safer. For something that shows a little more skin, founder of ethical and sustainable clothing line virtue + vice Melanie DiSalvo says, "I would recommend a suit made using ultra-thin neoprene. These suits can sometimes be a little uncomfortable when dry, but in the water they stick to the skin, helping prevent any sporty mishaps." For the do-it-all athletic babe, a monochromatic Baywatch-like number is both practical and stylish. While you're in the fitting room, finding your perfect do-it-all (or what we like to call 'slam dunk') suit, virtue + vice founder DiSalvo recommends looking for suits that advertise body-shaping technology on their tags — or just test it yourself. "If when you pull it, the fabric feels like it wants to snap back, kind of like a rubber band, then it's going to create a great silhouette that hugs your body." And when it comes to fabrics, she suggests polyester and nylon. "They're both wrinkle, stretch and shrink resistant and are considered easy care fabrics," she says.
If you're looking for the best bathing suits without breaking the bank, it's time to check out the tags on your suit. According to DiSalvo, a "Made in Bali" tag is a great sign. "Bali is famous for its manufacturing of swimsuits, and manufacturers in the country are known for their high-quality standards — even at cheaper price points," she said.
Livestrong · June 2018
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Women In India Are Putting A Face To Your Clothes, Is It Sustainable Fashion's Answer?
Melanie DiSalvo, who runs a clothing company called virtue + vice (yes, it’s lower case), is putting this into practice by working with WomenWeave in India, by speaking out (she’ll be at SXSW this month), and by trying to change public awareness with a video series that interviews all levels of her clothing supply chain from the women who weave to the women who print fabrics, dye and cut and sew, and asks them to answer “what would you say to the people who wear the clothes you make? It’s an intriguing idea. Recently in conversations about sustainability in fashion, what you hear is that we need to educate the consumer. Can we bring consumers to appreciate “less is more” and slow down the relentless pace of fashion manufacturing by putting a human face on our clothes?
India, sustainable fashion, fashion,
Woman drying fabric in Maheshwar
virtue + vice
Melanie started out an FIT grad, with an associate degree in merchandising and a B.S. degree in textile development and marketing. She began her career in Asia where her job was often to ensure garments were made as quickly and as cheaply as possible. While there, she witnessed deplorable conditions and came to understand that the problem of sustainable fashion lay not in the supply chain but at the top. Factories were often more than happy to use better, healthier practices but with pressure from company leaders, boards and clients with tight margins, to continue to churn out more profit, they often had no choice but to use the cheapest and easiest methods, even though they might be toxic to employees and the planet. She became determined shift consumer attitudes in order to create real change.
Her company works with the REHWA Society and WomenWeave to create her garments. Its mission is to “is to promote bespoke handloom cloth by providing fair livelihood to local disadvantaged women.” Women Weave was started by Sally Hokar who has worked with woman weavers in India for 50 years. She co-founded the REHWA Society with her husband to revive traditional weaving in the Maheshwar province. Its weaving styles are characterized by a sheer fabric created with a combination of silk warp and cotton weft yarns. In 2003 she founded Women Weave. It seemed logical to establish the organization in Maheshwar, as it is the cotton growing bed of India.
She also works with other smaller suppliers who are dedicated to improving communities and their workers lives like Studio Bagru, Jacobs Well. Together they are helping places like Maheshwar, Bagru, and Bangaluru, to compete against production in Bangladesh and China. Their answers to the interview questions that follow and first-hand experiences of the culture, challenges and opportunities provide deep insight into the benefits that companies can achieve by working with organizations like Women Weave and to the beauty of their culture.
Forbes · March 2018
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Quince knows what you're looking for, and it's making it cheaper
Melanie DiSalvo, an apparel and sourcing expert who works with multinational retailers, says it’s possible to obtain real silks and cashmere at low costs and charge prices like Quince. But DiSalvo, who has tried clothes from the brand, believes Quince’s savings are happening in production.
“They use less fabric, it’s not the best sewing, the seams are puckering,” she says. “That’s where they are cutting corners.”
The Wall Street Journal
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